Why Visit Lumiar?
Located 93 miles (150km) from Rio de Janeiro in the Serra dos Órgãos mountain range, Lumiar is an ecotourism paradise with over 50 catalogued waterfalls within easy reach. Unlike more touristy mountain destinations, Lumiar retains its authentic rural character while offering excellent accommodations and infrastructure for visitors.
The village sits at 900m elevation with a refreshing mountain climate, making it ideal for year-round visits. Most visitors come for waterfall hopping, hiking, and simply disconnecting in nature.
Getting There
Distance: 93 miles (150km) from Rio de Janeiro
Drive Time: 3 hours via BR-040 and RJ-116
Road Conditions: Good paved roads until Lumiar village, then some dirt roads to pousadas
By Car: Most recommended option for flexibility visiting waterfalls. GPS works well. Final 3km to some pousadas are unpaved but accessible with regular cars in dry conditions.
By Bus: Viação Útil buses from Rio's Novo Rio terminal to Nova Friburgo (2.5 hours), then local bus or taxi to Lumiar (45 min). Less convenient for waterfall access.
Best Pousadas in Lumiar
We personally researched these highly-rated accommodations that offer the perfect mountain retreat experience:
🏡 Pousada Nina-Flor Lumiar
Best for: Couples & nature lovers
Intimate pousada with breakfast served in-room for maximum flexibility. Rooms feature fireplaces,
electric blankets for mountain nights, and the peaceful sound of Rio Macaé flowing through the property.
Walking distance to Lumiar village center. Hosts William and Nicole provide excellent local tips for waterfalls.
Why we love it: The riverside location, flexible breakfast schedule, and incredibly
attentive hosts make this the top choice for a romantic mountain getaway.
🏔️ Parador Lumiar Boutique Hotel & Spa
Best for: Luxury seekers & families
Upscale resort on 440,000m² of Atlantic Forest with heated mineral pool, spa services, and
interconnecting chalets for families. Property features private waterfalls, hiking trails, and kids'
playroom with staff. Some chalets have fireplaces. Restaurant serves excellent regional cuisine.
Why we love it: Complete resort experience with nature immersion. Perfect if you want
luxury amenities while staying surrounded by forest.
🌿 Suítes da Cabana
Best for: Budget-conscious travelers
Clean, comfortable suites just 200m walk from Lumiar village center. Pool, excellent breakfast prepared
fresh daily, and very good value. Hosts Adelson and Simone are attentive and helpful with waterfall recommendations.
Why we love it: Perfect balance of comfort and affordability with unbeatable central location.
🏞️ Pousada Luar Da Serra
Best for: Nature immersion
Situated between tranquil street and virgin forest with natural pool formed by private river.
Property offers quadricycle and 4x4 tours. Minutes from village center. Hosts Sol and Cosme are welcoming.
Why we love it: Direct access to natural river swimming and adventure tour options make this ideal for active travelers.
Top Waterfalls (Cachoeiras)
💧 Cachoeira do Escorrega
The most famous waterfall in Lumiar with a natural stone slide that drops into a pristine swimming hole. Easy 20-minute walk from village center on well-marked trail. Brings families with kids as it's safe and fun. Best to visit morning (8-11am) before crowds arrive. No entrance fee but local guides available for R$50.
💧 Cachoeira Véu da Noiva
Stunning 30-meter waterfall accessible via moderate 40-minute hike. Less crowded than Escorrega. Beautiful swimming hole at base with deep, clear water. Trail starts near village. Small parking area (R$10). Worth hiring a local guide (R$100-150) for first visit as trail has some tricky sections.
💧 Cachoeira dos Frades
Series of three waterfalls and natural pools along the same trail. Medium difficulty 1.5-hour hike. Most peaceful option with fewest tourists. Requires 4x4 vehicle or taxi to trailhead (R$50-80 from village). Absolutely worth it for the pristine nature experience.
💧 Cachoeira da Toca do Leão
More challenging hike (2+ hours) but rewards with dramatic 40-meter waterfall and large natural pool. Hire a guide (required, R$150-200). Best for experienced hikers. Some rock scrambling involved.
- Bring water shoes or sandals with good grip - rocks are slippery
- Pack waterproof bag for phone/camera
- Apply biodegradable sunscreen only (protect the rivers!)
- Go early (7-9am) to avoid crowds and have waterfalls to yourself
- Water is cold (18-20°C) even in summer - invigorating but refreshing!
Where to Eat
Restaurante Raízes
Village center. Best restaurant in Lumiar serving farm-to-table Brazilian cuisine. Try their trout (raised locally) and organic vegetables. R$80-120 per person. Reservations recommended weekends.
Pizzaria Don Peppone
Wood-fired pizzas with local ingredients. Cozy mountain atmosphere with fireplace. R$60-90 per person. Popular with locals and visitors.
Empório Lumiar
Village grocery store/café perfect for breakfast, coffee, or buying supplies for picnics. Great pastries and fresh bread. Budget-friendly.
Sample 2-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival & Easy Waterfalls
- Morning: Arrive Lumiar, check into pousada, breakfast
- 11am: Walk to Cachoeira do Escorrega (easy, family-friendly)
- 1pm: Lunch at Restaurante Raízes
- 3pm: Explore Lumiar village, visit Empório for snacks
- 5pm: Return to pousada, relax by pool/river
- 7pm: Dinner at Don Peppone pizzaria
- Evening: Enjoy fireplace, stargaze (amazing dark skies!)
Day 2: Adventure Waterfalls
- 8am: Early breakfast, pack waterfall gear
- 9am: Hike to Véu da Noiva (moderate difficulty)
- 12pm: Picnic lunch by waterfall
- 2pm: Return to pousada
- 3pm: Optional: Arrange taxi to Cachoeira dos Frades OR relax at pousada
- Evening: Farewell dinner, pack for departure
Budget Breakdown
Weekend for 2 People (Fri-Sun):
- Pousada (2 nights, mid-range): R$700 ($140 USD)
- Transportation (gas/tolls or bus): R$200 ($40 USD)
- Meals (4 meals × 2 people): R$600 ($120 USD)
- Waterfall guides/parking: R$300 ($60 USD)
- Incidentals: R$200 ($40 USD)
- Total: ~R$2,000 (~$400 USD) or $200 per person
When to Visit
- Best months: May-September (drier season, less rain, cooler temperatures 15-25°C)
- Summer (Dec-Feb): Hotter, more rain, but waterfalls at fullest flow. Occasional afternoon showers.
- Winter (Jun-Aug): Coolest temperatures (10-20°C), crisp air, perfect for hiking. Water is cold!
- Avoid: January (peak Brazilian vacation, most crowded) and heavy rain periods (trails can be dangerous)
Essential Tips
- Cash: Bring Brazilian Reais - ATMs limited, many places don't accept cards
- Phone service: Can be spotty. Download offline maps before arrival
- What to pack: Hiking shoes, swimsuit, waterproof bag, warm layers for evenings, rain jacket
- Language: Portuguese only. Download Google Translate offline
- Guides: Ask your pousada to recommend local guides - they know conditions and best times
- Booking: Reserve pousadas in advance for weekends, especially May-September high season
Why Lumiar Over Other Mountain Destinations?
vs. Petrópolis: Lumiar is smaller, more authentic, focused on nature rather than museums
vs. Teresópolis: Fewer crowds, better swimming holes, more intimate village feel
vs. Visconde de Mauá: More developed infrastructure while keeping authentic charm
vs. Serra da Bocaina: Easier access, better roads, more accommodation options
Lumiar is perfect if you want pristine waterfalls, charming pousadas, and authentic mountain village experience without sacrificing comfort or dealing with difficult access roads.
Ready to Discover Lumiar's Waterfalls?
Don't wait—the best pousadas book up fast for weekends. Secure your mountain retreat now and start planning your waterfall adventure!